Royal cuisine: dine on dishes meant for kings

THE ORIGINAL ESSAY

Some would sum up Korean food with a description of gimchi and galbi, but there is far more to the national fare than such common but tasty delights. Seoul was the capital of the Joseon Dynasty for five hundred years and, as such, royal cuisine is well developed here. Daejanggeum, the mega-hit Hallyu (Korean wave) drama, featured royal food preparation as the mainstay of its narrative and now you can feast on the dishes of kings yourself.

Royal cuisine represents the whole of Korea’s food culture. Local produce from across the country was sent to the palace to present the king with tribute from the country. Royal cooks endeavored to prepare these ingredients in ways that were even more appetizing and more beneficial to the health of the king, which led to the development of a distinct royal cuisine.

A meal, according to Korean royal culinary arts, consists of a course of appetizers, main dishes and desserts, unlike a typical Korean meal where a bowl of rice and side dishes are served together on the table. This trait is due to the court’s special regard for formality. A basic court meal is called the ‘set of 12 side dishes’ and its modern version is offered at several places throughout Seoul. They have reinterpreted royal cuisine in a modern, freer sense while sometimes even providing an opportunity for you to prepare it yourself.

A prime example is Korea House in Chungmuro. It has reproduced the court’s kitchen, called Suragan, and includes an open kitchen where you can prepare and taste royal dishes for yourself. If you are able to make a reservation, the Korean Food Institute of Sookmyung University near Seoul Station also comes highly recommended as they can accommodate groups of foreigners. After touring the Hanok village of Bukchon or Changdeok Palace, you may want to visit the Institute of Korean Royal Cuisine, which is run by a chef who learned from the last cook of the royal household of Joseon.

What is interesting about the TV drama Daejanggeum is that its heroine became a court doctor after serving as a court chef. It follows the thread of connection with Korea’s traditional wisdom to heal illness with food. An experience with the royal cuisine will help you to gain deeper insight into the Korean psyche that attaches so much importance to its food.

From Peter’s supplied Seoul guidebook introduction, chapter 14. Original observations and historical framing are retained. PDF line-break and spacing repairs are recorded separately from factual updates. Guidebook photography and venue directories are not republished.