SEOUL, IN PETER’S WORDS · Neighborhoods
Bukchon: walk the alleys of everyday life
The streets are beautiful. They are also somebody’s way home.
Peter N. Liptak · Original guidebook essay, with dated editorial updates
Read the essay ↓
THE ORIGINAL ESSAY
Bukchon, which means ‘North Village’, was named so due to its location to the north of Jongno and Cheonggyecheon stream. Long inhabited by the members of royalty and high-ranking officials during the Joseon dynasty, about 860 traditional Korean houses still stand close together here.
In the 1930s, the Buckchon houses were remodeled for use by commoners. This can be seen as both regrettable and interesting as they offer a comprehensive view into the change hanok underwent from early modern times to the present. Bukchon differentiates itself from other tourist attractions in that everyday life still takes place here. Its scenery includes the narrow, winding alleys, small mom-and-pop stores, and people slowly walking by, creating a host of familiar, nostalgic scenes.
The area is largely divided into Lot No. 11 and Lot No. 31 courses of Gahoe dong (a dong is a district unit). Small workshops and unique museums cluster around Lot No. 11, while the Jeongdok Library and the Bukchon Museum line the main avenue of Lot No. 31.
Though their atmosphere and impression are different, when you walk along the small alleys of Bukchon, it feels as if you are walking down a street in Venice. Houses are similar but still diverse, alleys that seem blocked somehow continue, and those that seem to be leading to the main street turn out be passageways to a garden. You can rest your tired legs at a cozy cafe hidden down some lonesome lane or drop in at a small but peculiar museum.
Just walk around without minding where you are or where you are going and you’ll be sure to find your way. You cannot get lost in Bukchon. As in Venice where all alleys lead to the waterways, canals, and Saint Mark’s Square, all alleys in Bukchon connect to Gyeongbok Palace and Changdeok Palace.
From Peter’s supplied Seoul guidebook introduction, chapter 7. Original observations and historical framing are retained. PDF line-break and spacing repairs are recorded separately from factual updates. Guidebook photography and venue directories are not republished.
TAKE THE LANGUAGE WITH YOU
A city is a conversation, too.
Follow a related expression into its illustrated meaning and bilingual scene. These are informal book-sourced expressions, not a script to use with every stranger or service worker.
말 까다speak plainly; dispense with the nicetiesRead the book-sourced scene →Keep the whole conversation.
Keep the illustrated expressions, bilingual conversations and cultural notes together in As Much as a Rat’s Tail.
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